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Performance-enhancing Osteopathy in Sport Climbers with Finger Injuries
Otepka, M. [1]

Journal: Unpublished MSc thesis Wiener Schule für Osteopathie, Date: 2007/03, Pages: 64, type of study: controlled clinical trial

Free full text   (https://www.osteopathicresearch.com/s/orw/item/2997)

Keywords:

climber [4]
finger injuries [2]
sports injuries [1]
WSO [433]

Abstract:

Although the study was conducted over more than two years ago, only 14 climbers could be found for the study group and 9 for the control group. Already, Klauser et al. (1999, 736) found that there may be a large number of unreported cases because some 60% to 70% of injured climbers do not seek medical attention. The subdivision of the patients into three different groups was done using ultrasound by Dr. Klauser (Golden Standard) and the percentage of climbers in each group is similar to other studies. For example Hochholzer found that injuries of the Annular Pulley System, followed by tendovaginitis and finger joint related problems are the most common finger problems sport climbers have to deal with (Hochholzer/Schöffl 2001, 27). Pfeifer et al. (2000, 965) found that the red-point level is significant regarding with the risk for injuries and over use damages. This study showed that the kind of finger injury is not dependent on the climbing level (6.8.2.1). The performance level of the climbers in this study was very high. The mean of the redpoint maximum level was 7c and 7c+ (control group). Looking at the red point improvement level between the entrance and the control test of all athletes the mean of the study group was a little bit higher and all climbers of the study group have returned to climb again (6.8.1.4). If we only take the red point improvement level of the climbers who have been practicing their sport at the time of the entrance and the control test we can even find a significant result for the study group (6.8.2.2)! This can be called a confirmation of my hypothesis, but again the relatively small number of athletes must be kept in mind. In contrast to this statistical result stands the result of the ultrasound improvement: Here the group of the annular pulley injuries has significantly better results in the control group (6.8.2.3). But if we compare the red-point improvement level of this lesion group (annular pulley injuries) and take only people who have been climbing at the entrance and control test the group with the osteopathic treatment gets better results (6.8.2.4). And also in the test “US improvement sorted after treatment”, the group who has been treated from Dr. Klauser with cortisone injections has in this study better ultrasound improvement results than the study group (6.8.2.5). These statistic statements underline one more time the important roll of the fascial system as a support-, carrier- and protection system (Paoletti 2001, 146). Every climber knows that it is impossible to keep a performance level constant over a longer period of time. Therefore, many athletes plan their peak performance levels over the year. They normally divide the year into three phases: preparation-, competition- and transition stage (Güllich/Kubin 1986, 184). This means that if a climber gets injured during his competition or peak level stage, he would reduce his climbing intensity and quantity afterwards anyway. Because of this fact, reduced performance levels for the pulling test could be expected as well. An ultrasound improvement showed no significant correlation with a climbing reduction but the tendency to reduce the quantity of training seems to be good for the healing process! Only the group that reduced their training frequency four times per week showed very little improvement. This is probably the result of having climbers with more difficult injuries in this class who need longer time to heal. As an osteopath and sport climber, I am very pleased to have found a treatment method that the climbers accept and are satisfied with. Even though the injuries are often very painful, climbers want to continue training no matter what, as is mostly the case with elite athletes. This mindset carries over to their philosophy about treatment, where they already want to feel the effects during treatment. Therefore the climbers are willing to accept the sometimes painful fascia techniques. While climbers are reluctant to seek medical help for their problems, for the most part the patients of the study group were pleased with the results. To my knowledge, this was the first study ever done in the field of “climbing fingers” and osteopathy. Many sport climbers from all over the world have chosen Innsbruck as their place to live and climb, due to the optimal training conditions. Even though many of them have to deal with painful fingers, only 23 climbers could be found to participate in this study. The time between the entrance and the control test was only 6 to 8 weeks. For new studies a re-test after several months would be of great interest. In several tests it has been proved that osteopathy offers good possibilities to help sportclimbers with typical finger injuries. This thesis could be a good guide-line for physicians who are treating injured climbers. In my practice, I also see rock-climbers without any finger injury, but work preventatively with them. This topic would also be very interesting for new studies. To get more well-founded answers, a study with a much larger group has to be done. With the help of this thesis, osteopathy has become more popular in the climbing scene.

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